Japan in April 2024

13 days
Vancouver [YVR] → Tokyo [NRT] → Osaka → Kyoto → Tokyo [NRT] → Vancouver [YVR]

day 0 · Thu, Apr 4

 Vancouver [YVR] → Tokyo [NRT]

departed YVR at 1:50pm on American Airlines AA8435, operated by Japan Airlines. 10h 40m flight. overnight to Narita.

 day 1 · Fri, Apr 5

 Narita → Shibuya

landed at Narita at 4:30pm. met JR Pass Meet & Greet team at arrivals — picked up 14-day unlimited rail pass at JR counter. picked up NinjaWifi pocket WiFi router for unlimited data across Japan. took Narita Express (N'EX) to Shibuya — first encounter with Tokyo's train system. messed up a connection and took longer than expected. arrived Shibuya around 9pm. checked into hotel - Shibuya Stream Excel Hotel — got a room with a view of famous Shibuya Crossing. late dinner at Great Burger Stand around 10pm — quick and good food after a long travel day.

Shibuya Stream Excel Hotel [https://www.expedia.com/Tokyo-Hotels-SHIBUYA-STREAM-EXCEL-HOTEL-TOKYU.h28858266.Hotel-Information] — hotel occupies upper floors of Shibuya Stream, a multi-floor commercial complex with restaurants and shops on lower floors. directly connected to Shibuya Station. got a room with a view of famous Shibuya Crossing.

 day 2 · Sat, Apr 6

 Shibuya · Harajuku · Shinjuku · Akihabara · Odaiba

walked to Shibuya Crossing at 8am — almost empty, completely different from any other time of day — Tokyo still not up yet. breakfast at Excelsior Caffè. took JR Yamanote Line to Harajuku at 9am. visited Meiji Jingu — a Shinto shrine founded in 1920, dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, set in a large forested complex. walked for about an hour — peaceful.

Tokyo transport — best way to get around is JR Yamanote Line (Tokyo Loop Line) [https://www.jrailpass.com/blog/yamanote-line] — covered by JR Pass.

took train to Shinjuku around 10am. walked around — tried Dango (sweet rice dumplings on a skewer) from a street stall. visited Hanazono Shrine — a 17th century Shinto shrine, tucked quietly between Shinjuku's skyscrapers. train to Akihabara around noon. had Japanese chicken curry for lunch. explored Akihabara Electric Town — Tokyo's famous electronics and anime district, packed with multi-floor shops selling everything from vintage electronics to manga and figurines. shopped at Animate Akihabara. took train back to Tokyo Station at 3pm and walked to Tokyo Imperial Palace — built on the site of historic Edo Castle, originally built in 1457. castle was closed — walked the gardens and around the moat. took train from Yurakucho back to Shibuya — Shibuya Crossing completely transformed from morning, flooded with people. later around 8pm, took train to Odaiba — visited the life-sized Unicorn Gundam statue in front of DiverCity Tokyo Plaza. dinner at food court inside DiverCity — yakisoba and okonomiyaki. walked to observation deck at Odaiba Seaside Park — wide open views over Tokyo Bay. took train back to hotel.

 day 3 · Sun, Apr 7

 Shibuya · Shimoyoshida - Mt. Fuji · Harajuku

took train from Shibuya to Shinjuku at 8:30am. picked up Ekiben (train bento boxes) from Shinjuku Station — first of many. boarded Fuji Excursion limited express from Shinjuku. reached Shimoyoshida Station around 11am. walked ~20 minutes to Arakurayama Sengen Park and climbed 398 steps up to Chureito Pagoda — a five-storied pagoda built as a peace memorial. one of Japan's most iconic viewpoints — pagoda in the foreground, Mt Fuji rising behind. unfortunately Mt Fuji was covered in dense cloud. on the way back down — stumbled upon a samurai street play. back to station by 1:30pm. connected through Otsuki back to Shinjuku, then Harajuku — arrived around 4:30pm. walked through Takeshita Street — bumping into countless people, one of Tokyo's most famous and chaotic youth fashion streets. shopped at Warhammer store and Baseyard Tokyo for Jujutsu Kaisen merchandise. coffee break at Starbucks. walked back to hotel. dinner at Izobachi Miso Ramen around 9pm — miso ramen.

 day 4 · Mon, Apr 8

Tokyo → Osaka

checked out at 8:30am. coffee at Starbucks. train from Shibuya to Shinagawa. boarded Hikari Shinkansen (bullet train) around noon — hit 284km/h at peak but smooth and quiet. note: Google Maps suggests taking Nozomi Shinkansen from Tokyo to Osaka — but Nozomi is not covered by JR Pass. take Hikari instead [https://www.jrailpass.com/blog/tokyo-to-osaka]

Osaka transport — use Osaka Loop Line [https://www.jrailpass.com/blog/osaka-city-loop-line] — covered by JR Pass.

reached Shin-Osaka by 3pm. took JR Tokaido Sanyo Line — one stop to Osaka Station and walked to hotel. checked into Hotel Intergate Osaka Umeda — awesome panoramic views from corner room. later took train to Dotonbori — walked around Osaka's most famous entertainment district, bright neon signs, street food stalls, canal lined with restaurants. had Korean pork BBQ for dinner around 9pm.

Hotel Intergate Osaka Umeda [https://www.expedia.com/Osaka-Hotels-Hotel-Intergate-Osaka-Umeda.h60867496.Hotel-Information] — great location — close to Osaka Station on Osaka Loop Line. panoramic views from corner room.

 day 5 · Tue, Apr 9

Osaka Castle · Namba · Shinsekai

took train from Osaka Station to Osakajokoen Station. walked to Osaka Castle — one of Japan's most famous landmarks, originally built in 1583 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537–1598), one of Japan's most powerful feudal lords who unified Japan after a century of civil war. walked around the castle grounds for a couple of hours. coffee break at Tully's Coffee inside the castle souvenir shop area. visited nearby Hokoku Shrine — a Shinto shrine founded in 1879, dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. tried Takoyaki — fried octopus balls — from a nearby stall. took train to Namba around 1:30pm. visited Namba Yasaka Jinja — a striking shrine famous for its giant lion-head stage. walked to Shinsaibashi covered shopping arcade. continued to Hozenji Temple — a small Buddhist temple founded in 1637, tucked in a narrow cobblestone alley between Shinsaibashi and Dotonbori. famous for its moss-covered statue of Fudo Myoo, a Buddhist deity — visitors splash water on it for good luck. walked along Dotonbori canal, tried Ikayaki — grilled squid on a stick — from a riverside stall. took train from Namba to Ebisuchō around 8:30pm. visited Tsutenkaku Tower — iconic tower in Shinsekai, Osaka's retro entertainment district. McDonald's nearby. train back to hotel.

 day 6 · Wed, Apr 10

 Universal Studios Japan

breakfast at Tully's Coffee in Osaka Station. took Osaka Loop Line from Osaka Station to Nishikujo, then JR Yumesaki Line to Universal-City Station. walked to Universal Studios — arrived around 10am. booked via Klook — 1 Day Studio Pass and Express Pass 4. full day inside the park. lunch inside the studio around 2:30pm. out by 7pm. dinner at Wolfgang Puck Pizza Bar near Universal-City Station. back to hotel by 9pm — exhausted but happy.

 day 7 · Thu, Apr 11

 Osaka → Kyoto

took Osaka Loop Line to Shitenno-ji-Yuhigaoka Station around 9:45am. walked to Shitenno-ji Temple — one of Japan's oldest Buddhist temples, founded in 593 CE. later back to hotel by 11am. checked out. took JR Tokaido Sanyo Line to Kyoto Station — arrived around noon.

Kyoto transport — trains don't cover all areas [https://www.jrailpass.com/blog/getting-around-kyoto]. buses cover most but can be confusing. taxi/Uber is convenient.

dropped luggage at Hotel Daiwa Roynet Kyoto Ekimae Premier. lunch at Burger King near hotel. taxi to Kyoto Handicraft Centre — five floors of traditional Kyoto crafts, ceramics, textiles and souvenirs. walked 5 minutes to Heian-jingu Shrine — a grand Shinto shrine built in 1895. back to hotel and checked in. dinner at Saikatei — close to hotel — gyoza, extreme spicy ramen and dan dan noodles — tongue burned but enjoyed.

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kyoto Ekimae Premier [https://www.expedia.com/Kyoto-Hotels-Daiwa-Roynet-Hotel-Kyoto-Ekimae.h15120209.Hotel-Information] — great location — close to restaurants, taxi stand and Kyoto Station.

 day 8 · Fri, Apr 12

Arashiyama · Gion

took taxi to Arashiyama area. visited Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple at 8:45am — a Buddhist temple founded in 766 CE, known for 1,200 moss-covered stone statues covering the hillside, each with a unique expression. then Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple at 9:15am — a Buddhist temple founded in 811 CE, home to ~8,000 stone statues honoring souls of people who died without family. a quiet bamboo grove sits at the back — far less crowded than famous Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. continued to Gioji Temple — a small 12th-century Buddhist temple, set in a beautiful moss garden. walked to famous Arashiyama Bamboo Grove — sea of people. back to hotel. coffee and sandwiches at Seattle's Best Coffee nearby. taxi to Kenninji Temple at 2pm — Kyoto's oldest Zen temple, founded in 1202. walked along Hanamikoji-dori — Gion's most famous street, lined with traditional machiya townhouses and ochaya teahouses, pretty crowded. taxi to Kiyomizu-dera — one of Japan's most celebrated temples, founded in 778 CE, perched on a hillside. entered through Nio-mon Gate — the dramatic main entrance gate. explored the complex. walked to Seikan-ji Temple — a quiet hillside Buddhist temple founded in 802 CE. at 6pm — Ninja Experience Cafe Kyoto — a prebooked ninja training session. shuriken throwing, ninja history, full experience. dinner at Azuma Sushi in Gion at 7:30pm. walked to Yasaka Jinja — a Shinto shrine founded in 656 CE with iconic vermillion Nishiromon Gate, open 24 hours — beautiful lit up at night. back to hotel.

 day 9 · Sat, Apr 13

Fushimi Inari · Arashiyama · Nijo Castle

took JR Nara Line from Kyoto Station to Inari Station at 6am. hiked Fushimi Inari Taisha — a Shinto shrine founded in 711 CE, dedicated to Inari — god of rice, agriculture and business prosperity. famous for its ~10,000 vermillion torii gates winding up Mt Inari, along with many fox statues — foxes are considered Inari's messengers. not crowded at that hour — completely different experience from crowds on the way back. coffee at Vermillion Espresso Bar. train back to hotel and checked out. took taxi to Arashiyama at 11:30am. visited Iwatayama Monkey Park — a hillside park home to over 120 wild Japanese macaques. lunch at a restaurant by Katsura River — ramen. taxi back. stopped at Higashihonganji Temple — a massive Buddhist temple (one of the world's largest wooden structures) founded in 1602. picked up luggage from hotel and took taxi to Yakushi-in — a traditional ryokan-style temple Airbnb. walked to Nijo Castle area at 7pm — a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in 1603. castle was closed at that hour — walked around the moat and outer grounds. ramen for dinner nearby.

Yakushi-in [https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3890865] — a ryokan-style temple stay in central Kyoto. Karasumaoike Station 10 minutes walk, Kyoto Station 15 minutes by taxi.

 day 10 · Sun, Apr 14

Kinkakuji · Toji-in · Nijo Castle · Kyoto Gyoen

started the day with a traditional Japanese breakfast at Yakushi-in — a distinct and memorable experience. took taxi to Kinkakuji temple (Golden Pavilion) at 9:30am — a Zen Buddhist temple built in 1397. UNESCO World Heritage Site. top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf, reflected in the surrounding pond. one of Japan's most iconic sights. walked to Toji-in Temple at 10:30am — a quiet Zen temple founded in 1341, known for its beautiful garden featuring wave-patterned gravel around carefully placed rocks, and portraits of Ashikaga shoguns. back to Nijo Castle — featuring the famous Ninomaru Palace with its "nightingale floors" that squeak when walked upon — a security feature against assassins. snacks and coffee at the castle café. hot day — 26°C around noon. later walked to Kyoto Gyoen National Garden at 6:30pm — a vast imperial garden surrounding the old Kyoto Imperial Palace. dinner at Balcook in Gion at 7:30pm — pizza.

 day 11 · Mon, Apr 15

Kyoto → Tokyo

checked out. taxi to Kyoto Station. coffee and snacks at Café Ciao Presso inside the station. boarded Hikari Shinkansen (bullet train) to Tokyo. got a clear view of Mt Fuji this time. arrived Tokyo around 4:45pm. took train to Asakusa. checked into Asakusa Tobu Hotel. walked to Senso-ji Temple — Tokyo's oldest and most visited Buddhist temple, founded in 628 CE. approached through iconic Nakamise-dori shopping street lined with traditional snacks and souvenir shops. walked along Rokku Street and Sumida River riverside park. shopping at Don Quijote Asakusa. dinner at New Himalayan Dining & Bar — Nepalese and Indian — dumplings, fried rice and noodle soup.

Asakusa Tobu Hotel [https://www.expedia.com/Tokyo-Hotels-Asakusa-Tobu-Hotel.h45812090.Hotel-Information] — great location in Asakusa, walking distance to Senso-ji Temple.

 day 12 · Tue, Apr 16

Asakusa → Narita [NRT] → Vancouver [YVR]

walked to Senso-ji Temple early morning — empty and peaceful. after 10am it gets flooded with tourists — worth planning an early visit. explored the complex and walked along Sumida River. later checked out and headed to Airport by early afternoon. dropped off NinjaWifi router. departed on AA8436 (operated by Japan Airlines) at 6:30pm. arrived Vancouver YVR at 11:35am same day.

fun fact: collected 30+ flavors of Japanese KitKat across the trip — matcha, strawberry, lemon, apple, red bean, wasabi, sake, cheesecake, tea, chocolate, orange, wheat, sakura (cherry blossom) and many more.

trip budget · 2 persons

Airfare x2 $3,250
Hotel Shibuya Stream Tokyo (3 nights) $1,200
Hotel Intergate Osaka Umeda (3 nights) $650
Hotel Daiwa Roynet Kyoto (2 nights) $675
Airbnb Yakushi-in Kyoto (2 nights) $700
Hotel Asakusa Tobu Tokyo (1 night) $175
JR Pass x2 $1,200
Wi-Fi Ninja $100
USJ Studio Pass x2 $400
Ninja Experience x2 $75
food / shopping / transport $1,725
total $10,150

Japan — tips

1. buy JR Pass well in advance — allows time for FedEx/UPS delivery. Meet & Greet service is worth it for first time in Japan.
2. get mobile data — pocket WiFi router. we used NinjaWifi (booked it with JR Pass), picked up at NRT.
3. get an IC card — prepaid transit card. also accepted at convenience stores and vending machines. get one per person. we used Suica — add to Apple Wallet, top up directly from iPhone anytime, tap to pay seamlessly.
4. start early — most temples and shrines are best before 9am. less crowded - peaceful and better light for photos.
5. use Google Maps — works perfectly in Japan for transport and walking navigation.
6. don't tip — tipping is not customary in Japan and can be considered rude.
7. book tickets and experiences in advance via Klook [https://www.klook.com/en-US/]. we booked USJ passes and Ninja Cafe through Klook.
8. eVISA (if required) — apply at evisa.mofa.go.jp [https://www.evisa.mofa.go.jp/personal/login].
9. Japanese dishes to try outside ramen, sushi, sashimi and Tempura -
   • Okonomiyaki — savoury pancake
   • Soba — thin buckwheat noodles
   • Yakisoba — stir-fried wheat noodles
   • Udon — thick noodle
   • Yaki Udon — stir-fried thick noodle
   • Ekiben — lunch box for a train journey
   • Wagyu beef — premium Japanese beef, known for intense marbling
   • Tonkatsu — deep-fried breaded pork cutlet
   • Chicken Katsu — chicken cutlet
   • Gyukatsu — beef cutlet
   • Yakitori — skewered grilled chicken
   • Takoyaki — fried octopus balls
   • Dango — sweet rice dumplings on a skewer
   • Ikayaki — skewered grilled squid